For the first time in months, the swell forecast was something to take note of, even if the accompanying wind was not ideal. It felt like time to get Rainbow Brite wet again so after work and banana on toast, Phyllis and I set off to Skaill.
It was pretty much low tide when I arrived, which is the rubbishest time of day for the right, but there were definitely some waves so I decided I might as well get in and see whit like.
Every so often big monster set would come in right across the whole bay, yep, there was definitely some swell, although it was very messy and frothy white.
After farting about putting the foam back in my boat (this tells me she hasn’t been paddled since before early May), I got on the water and out to the break with no problems. I had a nosey around to see what was happening before catching a lovely wee wave. I was looking where I was going for the turn but had to remind myself to edge before it would really kick in!
I sat on the edge of the break and watched what was happening and although I knew I needed to get in deeper to catch good waves, I also did not want a mashing. Still, I caught a few that were OK and stayed upright and dry. After a while, I caught one but my take off was far too straight and by the time I had engaged the turn, the white water had caught up with me and picked me up on the fluff. I finally got off the back of it, only to be met by about 5 foaming white monsters from which there was no hiding. Finally one was so steep it tail looped me and I had a peedie roll. I battled back out to the break and sat and had a look for a while again.
The tide was coming in by this point and the character of the waves was changing, just off the shoulder was really confused and not a nice place to be. It was hard to see if the wave was just going to break again in a random place as everything was all lumpy bumpy and unpleasant.
Given that I was on my own, I decided I really didn’t want to piss about in there and risk getting totally thumped so I headed back into the beach while there was a break in the swell. I was quite pleased to negotiate my way to the beach without incident or more bashes to my hull!
I had literally sat down on the grass by the van when what should appear round the corner than Hairyaker and Nanavan. We chatted about conditions and Hairyaker did a lot of beard stroking, but I felt that I’d had just enough for my first time out in about 3 months. I left them there and went home to play my fiddle.
It may have not been the best session ever, but who can complain about getting a chance for a surf in July!
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